If you’ve followed me here at the DIBY Club you know I’m a sucker for two things: Dr. Pepper and beautifully finished inside seams. Which is why the flat felled seam is what my dreams are made of. It is so sleek looking and every project I finish with it becomes a piece of art.
Most people don’t even realize that there are so many different ways to finish their garments, so I was really excited to put together this tutorial for those ready to see the light.
If you are completely unfamiliar with the flat felled seam it is very popular for denim sewing projects. Flip inside out a pair of designer jeans and you’ll likely find yourself a handful of flat felled seams.
Not only are they beautiful but they have fabulous utility. They are incredibly strong – another reason they are perfect for denim. They’re also a great option for people with sensory sensitivities as the inside is so much smoother than rough serger or zig zag stitches.
For a more interactive tutorial experience, you can watch the video tutorial here:
Editor’s Note: Enjoying this beautiful finishing seam? Put it to use on our Anna Skirt!
Follow Along with Pictures
Before anything else make sure that your pattern has at least 5/8″ seam allowance. If your pattern has anything less, you will not have enough seam allowance to do the double fold of a flat felled seam.
If your pattern includes a seam allowance less than 5/8″, simply add in any additional seam allowance necessary.
Once your pieces have been cut out, start by aligning your pieces right sides together and sew a regular straight stitch with a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Next, trim down one side of your seam allowance and press your seams toward the long side.
Then press down the long side of the seam allowance so that it encases the short side. Make sure that when you do, the edge of the long side does not get folded past your stitch line.
Then fold it over once more. Press heavily with steam and pin it into place.
Finally take it over to your sewing machine and topstitch the fold into place.
If you’re sewing jeans, feel free to add a second parallel topstitch if you’d like.
Just look at that beautiful flat felled seam!
And the backside is equally as beautiful.
-- Originally authored by Jessica Hooley. Archived by Holly Hetzner.